Casa dels Ossos, Barcelona

This is a manually archived copy of an article that first appeared in the Observer newspaper in the UK in the summer of 1999. The official archive holds no record of the original story. There was no byline suggesting it was a press release lazily reprinted verbatim. By 2007, the official number of los desaparecidos whose disappearance was in some way linked to Casa dels Ossos reached 163 and, unable to control the growing disquiet, state officials padlocked the front doors, erected high gates and put up signs forbidding entrance. The owners were never found. Rumours of spectacular illegal parties in the graffiti-stained and partially burned ruins continue to circulate but learning times and dates and getting an invite is impossible unless you are very well connected.

Staying at Casa dels Ossos, known as the "House of Bones," is an experience that transcends the ordinary, plunging you into a world of surreal beauty and nightmarish terror. This architectural wonder, reminiscent of Gaudí’s Casa Batlló, immediately captures the imagination with its skeletal, organic design. The undulating walls, irregular oval windows, and flowing stonework give the house a living, breathing quality that is both captivating and unsettling.

The exterior is a mosaic masterpiece, with broken ceramic tiles creating a muted yet dazzling trencadís facade that shifts in color and texture with the changing light. The roof, arched like the spine of a dragon or dinosaur, adds a mythical presence that looms over the entire structure, setting the tone for the extraordinary experience that awaits inside.

The walls are decorated with what the guidebook describes as protective sigils.

A two-night stay at Casa dels Ossos during high season for two adults is priced between €1,600 and €2,400. While the cost may seem steep, it is a small price to pay for an encounter with the extraordinary—though I must caution that this is not a stay for the faint of heart.

After booking your stay, flights from London Heathrow to Barcelona are the most convenient option. Direct flights are available through major airlines such as British Airways, Iberia, and Vueling, with prices typically ranging from £100 to £300 per person, depending on the season and how far in advance you book. The flight takes around two hours, followed by a 30-minute taxi ride or a short metro journey to reach Casa dels Ossos in the heart of the city.

Upon arrival, the house’s surreal charm lulls you into a false sense of security. By day, Casa dels Ossos is a dreamscape of flowing lines and subtle colors, a perfect retreat from the bustling city outside. But as night falls, the house reveals its true nature, transforming into a place where the boundaries of reality are blurred, and the unknown comes to life.

The walls are decorated with what the guidebook describes as protective sigils. When you make the reservations, you are strictly admonished not to tamper with, cover, alter or remove them in any way and are obliged to sign a contract waiving all liability for any harm and damages received if you do not follow this rule. The theatrics attached to this superstition seem amusing at the time but a lot less so at night.

Around midnight, the organic walls appear to shift, and the connections between the rooms to change. The once-beautiful hallways become a disorienting labyrinth where the laws of physics seem to no longer apply. One becomes lost. The house groans under the pressure of the unleashed forces, its skeletal structure straining as if alive and in pain. The heat is unbearable, and the rooms fill with the scent of sulfur and ash.

As dawn breaks, the house settles back into its daytime facade, the architecture returns to something unusual yet comprehensible. But the memory of that night lingers, leaving you with a profound sense of unease. Casa dels Ossos is not just a place to stay; it is an experience that challenges your perceptions and tests the limits of your courage.

For those daring enough to stay, Casa dels Ossos offers an unforgettable journey. Just be prepared: this is not merely a vacation—it is an encounter with the extraordinary, one that will stay with you long after you leave.

Beyond the surreal experience of Casa dels Ossos, the surrounding area offers a wealth of attractions to explore. Located in the heart of Barcelona, you're just a short walk away from iconic landmarks such as La Sagrada Família, the vibrant La Rambla, and the historic Gothic Quarter. Art lovers can visit the Picasso Museum, while food enthusiasts will relish the local cuisine at bustling markets like La Boqueria. Whether you're drawn to the city's rich history, its vibrant art scene, or its culinary delights, Barcelona has something to offer everyone, making it the perfect complement to your extraordinary stay.

I have recently been shown a cached copy of an online journal from an urban explorer who was deeply traumatised by an expedition to the shuttered house in 2015. I am currently trying to confirm its veracity.

Click the link to the right Javier's account